WADI RUM

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They were  not unbroken  walls  of  rock, but were built
sectionally, in crags like gigantic buildings along the two
of their street. Deep alleys, fifty feet across, divided the
craps , whose  plans  were  smoothed  by the weather
into huge  apses  and  bays, and enriched with surface
fretting and fracture-like design. They gave the finishing
semblance of  Byzantine architecture  to this irresistible
place: this processional  way greater than imagination…
Landscape , in  childhood’s  dream ,  were  so vast and 
silent’ ( T.E. Lawrence:  The  Seven  Pillars  of Wisdom).
Throughout the Arab Revolt , Lawrence would return to
Wadi Rum , either  in  person  or in imagination , when in
need  of  solace ,  finding  that  Rumm’s glory would not 
let a man waste himself in feverish regrets.
Appropriately ,  a  significant  part  of David Lean’s epic,
Lawrence  of  Arabia ,  was filmed here. Wadi Rum has
been  inhabited  since earliest  times , and seems  to have been an important  center for the Nabateans, for the ruins of a Nabatean temple have been found at the foot of the great massif of Jabal Rum. There is a  small  fort  here, one of a  string  built in 1933 by  Glubb Pasha,  as an outpost of the Desert Patrol- now  known  as the  Bedouin Police which he had created only three years earlier. The Bedouins who joined it  were  transformed  into an unflinching  and disciplined  force that represented everything that was most  formidable and romantic in Middle East warfare. They won legendary reputations in the 2nd  World  War. Glubb  himself  designed  their  uniform - long  Khaki  skirt ,  red  sash ,  lanyard  and bullet bandolier ,  a silver  dagger  tucked  into  the  belt ,  and on  the head a red-checkered shamagh held in 
place by a black aghal. They were the cynosure of every eye.