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They were not
unbroken walls of rock, but were built
sectionally, in crags like gigantic buildings along the
two
of their street. Deep alleys, fifty feet across, divided
the
craps , whose plans were smoothed
by the weather
into huge apses and bays, and enriched
with surface
fretting and fracture-like design. They gave the finishing
semblance of Byzantine architecture to this
irresistible
place: this processional way greater than
imagination…
Landscape , in childhood’s dream ,
were so vast and
silent’ ( T.E. Lawrence: The Seven
Pillars of Wisdom).
Throughout the Arab Revolt , Lawrence would return to
Wadi Rum , either in person or in
imagination , when in
need of solace , finding
that Rumm’s glory would not
let a man waste himself in feverish regrets.
Appropriately , a significant part
of David Lean’s epic,
Lawrence of Arabia , was filmed here.
Wadi Rum has
been inhabited since earliest times ,
and seems to have been an important center for
the Nabateans, for the ruins of a Nabatean temple have
been found at the foot of the great massif of Jabal Rum.
There is a small fort here, one of
a string built in 1933 by Glubb
Pasha, as an outpost of the Desert Patrol- now
known as the Bedouin Police which he had
created only three years earlier. The Bedouins who joined
it were transformed into an
unflinching and disciplined force that
represented everything that was most formidable and
romantic in Middle East warfare. They won legendary
reputations in the 2nd World War. Glubb
himself designed their uniform -
long Khaki skirt , red sash
, lanyard and bullet bandolier , a
silver dagger tucked into
the belt , and on the head a
red-checkered shamagh held in
place by a black aghal. They were the cynosure of every
eye.
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